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Swift Sixteen Revolving Cab Windows

by JRinTawa  

Created 19th February 2018.

Fitting Swift Sixteen Revolving Cab Window

I couldn't find anything on the internet as to how others have fitted these rather nice, but potentially fiddly, windows into a loco cab.  Certainly it would have been easier if I had done it before assembling the cab but then life isn't easy.  The cab I'm building is an addition to the very nice DLB Model Engineering saddle tank kit (more on that in another topic).

Of course I didn't take a picture of the etching as it arrive in the post but lets get started anyway.  
https://www.swiftsixteen.co.uk/Revolving-Spectacle-Window-Set

I used a Stanley knife to cut slice through the fine tabs and separate the bits.  I used a pair of nippers on the first bit and put a slight bend in it, they came out cleanly using the knife.  Cleaning up the residual tabs with a file as usual. There is a jig to cut and file the required opening too.  I had marked and cut the holes to just under the required 25mm diameter when my cab front was a flat sheet, just having to file the required top and bottom slots to the jig.  Final filing of the hole would happen once the front ring was soldered on.

Now the first tricky bit!  After much pondering of numerous complicated cunning plans the method was simple.  Use masking tape and solder paste!  Simple is best yet again.  In the picture you'll see the opening with the required slots, the other ring with masking tape attached and cut to shape with the supplied jig sitting to the left.


A bit out of sequence but here is the inner ring positioned ready for applying the soldering iron. 


Front rings attached and opening finished off with a file to match the soldered on rings.

And jumping ahead again the final inner ring in place before cleaning up the solder.  I'd learnt by this stage that using a 100w wrong worked best in a two stage operation.  First around the ring inside to melt the bulk of the solder and fix in place.  Then remove the masking tape and apply the soldering iron progressively around the ring melting the balance of the solder paste.  I had used a mix of 50w iron and micro torch on the outside rings and just the 50w iron of the first inside ring with varying degrees of success, but it worked a treat with the additional heat from the 100w iron.  Not surprising really as there is a lot of brass in the cab front.


Going back a few steps, lets build up the actual revolving windows (spectacles).  I Bluetacked a small piece of styrene onto the supplied clear stuff and then scribed a circle (I think it was about 23mm diameter but forget exactly) with a compass and cut to that mark with heavy scissors.  Doesn't need to be too accurate as there is quite a bit of coverage in the brass frames.


Two brass halves (layers) then mated up over the clear stuff and held in line with tiny pegs before placing in the vice to progressively solder a little at a time between the pegs.  50W iron and normal solder.


Solderling complete ready to clean up, file a nice small chamber to the edges and also the revolving pins need rounding off a bit if you want your specials to be revolving.

Cleaned up.  I guess you've realised the window have to be in place before the inner ring is soldered up.


And that's it, solder those inner rings in place as per the out os sequence photos above and jobs done.

It was fiddly yes, but quite achievable in small patience steps.  And well worth the finished result.

I'll include another photo once the cab is all painted and installed on the loco. :-)


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