Chris Bird
On this page I will be transferring the fitting notes that were on the Summerlands Chuffer Website up until September 2019. Please scroll down to find the loco you are looking for.
Locos covered on this page:
Argyll
Atlantic
Russell
Bertie
Darjeeling B
Charles Pooter
Carrie
Fowler
Hunslets Linda & Blanche
Jack Special Edition
Katie
Karen
Leek & Manifold
Mountaineer and Alco
Sandy River No 24
Tom Rolt
Roundhouse Argyll - and other early Roundhouse Locos
These
note also apply to many early Roundhouse type locos where the smokebox is not
easily removable. This may include Lady Anne, Jack, Fowler etc.
The first thing to be aware off is that there are three types of
smokebox fitting:
1. Early type.
Here the smoke-box casting is riveted to the front footplate and
the exhausts and superheater pass through a hole in the bottom of the casting.
This means that even if you drill out the rivets (to replace them with screws)
you cant remove the smoke-box. David Turner's account below tells how he got
round this, but the more straightforward option is to remove the boiler to
access the exhausts. This type will have short exhaust stubs which may require
you to lengthen the chuffer connecting pipe or order a special longer one.
You can check if yours is this type by looking at the back of the
smoke-box saddle to see
if there is a gap. If you can't see then investigate with a bit of
bent wire. If there is no
gap - then it is the early type.
2. Mid type.
Here the difference is that the superheater and exhausts pass
through an open backed
slot in the base of the smoke-box casting. You can look or
probe for this as above. If it is
there, it means that drilling out the rivets will allow you to
remove it as Chris Haley
describes below. Again the exhausts are likely to be cut
short.
3. Late type
Here the slot is there as in the mid type, but the smoke-box
casting is screwed on and
can be removed if you can get at the screws. Photos of this type
are below.
Fitting notes - Early type.
It is the early type that presents some problems so here are
David Turner notes on how he did it. It is also worth reading the pages on
fitting to the Fowler which can present similar problems.
"Roundhouse Argyles present a modest problem of access to the
exhaust pipes but the way forward is simple. First unscrew the middle two of
the four small screws on the front footplate ledge.
Next, carefully prize the brass handrails out of their holes
in the sides of the smokebox. It is possible by a modest amount of bending to
release them from the first set of retaining clips on the boiler, without
distorting the rails. Twist the handrails through 90 degrees so that they
lie flat against the smokebox under a little spring tension but not enough to
prevent the removal task. Now the smokebox is loose enough to assist the next
step.
The smoke box is also held by a single central screw to one frame
spacer. Its head can be seen in profile at the rear of the
smokebox, under the boiler but it is not possible to get a conventional
screwdriver into the slot, even through the chimney hole once the chimney is
pulled out of its housing. However, this screw is unlikely to be tight. It has
been bathed in oil and it has no locknut so it should be a simple matter
to wind it out by using a screwdriver blade on the side of the nut head. A long
pair of long-nosed pliers would also work.Try to remember that anticlockwise
undoes nuts!
Once this nut is free the smokebox may move more but still not be
removed because of the superheater tube. (this passes through the large round
hole and then curves back into the the boiler flue). This is not a big problem.
Turn the locomotive on its back, preferably nested on foam or a pile of old
cloths. With a fine round profile craft file carefully extend the
screw hole in the baseplate of the smokebox so that you have a fore and
aft slot wide enough for the 1/8th inch superheater tube to pass through. (You
could used a burr on a Dremel or similar mini drill - but make sure you protect
the boiler if you do this) If you make this slot generous you will find
reassembly easier. From here on, the fitting of the chuff pipe is as usual.
On reassembly, you can choose whether to replace the rear screw,
or not. It seems to make no difference to the stability of the smokebox unit
which, after all, snugly sleeves over the boiler which
is immovable anyway and is prevented from sliding forward out of
place by the two front screws.
Fitting Notes - Mid Type
Here are Chris Haley's notes on fitting to this version.
"Well finally got my Argyll and me in the same place with a
little time to try and fit the chuffer - and it is proving to be a bit of a
***! I can see it would be a doddle on the later version, but mine is the
earlier version with smokebox rivetted to footplate. David Turner's
instructions proved very useful in getting the smokebox a bit loose - although
revoving the screw fixing it to the frame spacer took a while (and I
don't see it could ever be replaced). But even with it loose removing the smokeboxis
proving a major challenge. The problem, as David notes, is the superheater
pipe. This passes through a hole on the piece of footplate to which the
smokebox is riveted. David suggests cutting a slot through the footplate. This
would be a major efffort on mine as the superheater pipe is soo tight against
the edge of the hole to allow it to be moved for filing. Antway, I've put it on
hold for a moment whilst I think it through..........
...........Having slept on it I decided the easiest option was
simply to drill out the rivets holding the smokebox to the footplate. I was
worried that these might be difficult because, like the screws on the later
model, they are partly obscured by the steam pipes. But in fact it was dead
easy - no more that a minute or two with a minidrill. Removing the front
buffer/coupler eases access a bit and this way there is no need to remove any
screws including the inacccessible one under the smokebox. The smokebox then is
easily removed and the remainder of the rivets can be drifted out.
The plan is to tap rivet holes in the smokebox and replace the
rivets with screws as in the more recent version - allowing rapid removal if
adjustments need to be made once the chuffer is fitted. However, having done
this I discovered one more hurdle to deal with - the exhaust pipes on my Argyll
are cut only just above the footplate and were wedged side-by-side into a
single piece of slightly flattened brass tupe which takes the exhaust
into the chimney (this must be original fitting as I very much doubt that the
smokebox had been removed previously - and I assume may be a problem on some
other RH locos as well). The shortened pipes mean that the chuffer slot will be
too low - not within the chimney - if fitted on these."
In fact Chris first tried lengthening the two pipes, but then just
lengthened the single pipe between the Chuffer and the adapter. Please
note that we can supply a replacement Chuffer with a longer pipe if required.
Fitting Notes - Late Type
Sam Evans first alerted me to the late type when he found the
fitting very easy.. His photo show two screws holding the smoke-box casting to
the front foot plate. With these removed, the smoke-box can be removed. These
versions also have the longer exhausts which will need cutting to size. Sam
opted to fit his Chuffer 3mm down from the chimney top as the Argyll chimney is
quite short. This put the cut height at 70mm from the chimney top.
A late type Argyll has recently joined the Summerlands loco shed
and the photos clearly show the slotted smokebox and the fitting stages. The
top of the chuffer has been painted matt black.
Here is a photo from Sam Evans showing that he could access the two screws to remove the smokebox.
Atlantic - Part 1
Peter Rohde and Dave Mees fitted the SCGP1 Summerlands Chuffer to the new Roundhouse Atlantic. This is very complex, and not for the faint hearted or inexperienced! Here are Peter's notes:
"The position of the origional chuff should first be measured From the top rim of the chimney to the top of the Roundhouse chuffer on our example measured 20.5mm.
Now turn the locomotive up side down with the smokebox end towards you. Two sets of pipes can be seen which take the live and exhaust steam to the cylinders. The four nuts on the two tee pieces should now be undone. Note that the seal on these connections is made with four "O" rings.
Now remove the screw holding the front buffer inplace and remove buffer from body. This gives access to the four cap screws that hold the two cylinders to the frame two cap screws per side. These four cap
screws need only be slacked off enough to allow the two cylinder blocks to move out enough to touch the outer valance.
On no account remove the cap screws entirely as the cylinder will touch the valance long before they come out of the cylinder block, they are a pig to put back, you have been warned!
Now comes the technically hard bit.
With two strong hand and two good snipe nosed pliers you now need to remove the top Tee piece from the locomotive. This is done by twisting one or both of the top set of pipes so that the Tee is no longer
captivated between the two pipes. This connection is going to be remade so try to be restrained in your violence, there probably is a trick to this process only it's yet to be discovered (see below!).
Once you have the Tee piece and its soldered pipe out of the loco and on the work bench it now remains to work out where you are going to cut it. Our Tee piece had a bit of pipe that looked very second hand attached to it with multiple kinks in it.
After a lot of discussion and debate we removed 32mm from the top of the original exaust pipe on the grounds that we could take it off but not put more on. This resulted in the new chuff pipe distance of 7mm when re-assembled in our case.
The resulting cut down chuff pipe will now have to be rubbed down so that you new Summerland chuffer is a tight push fit over the pipe.
Our Summerlands Chuffer did not have a slot cut in the top, so you will now have to experiment with the resultant chuff pipe down the Atlantic chimney and by reattaching one of the nuts to the tee to give your
self an idea of the position of the new chuff pipe in the chimney. This has to be off set with the chimney such that the cut out in the chuff is not muffled by the chimney wall. It is a good idea to mark the top of the chuff such that the chuff opening can be ascertained when looking down the chimney from the top. When the position of the pipe is to your satisfaction, reattach the second half of the Tee. Check that this has not moved the chuff pipe position so that the opening is not muffled by the chimney wall. Tighten up the nuts on both tee's, making sure that the "O" ring are still in position. The live steam joints should be tightened up more than the exhaust joints and then the four cap screws that hold the cylinders to the frames.
Finally refit the buffer to the front beam.
You can now steam up you loco and listen to the results."
Atlantic - part 2
Neil Simpson in Canada has added the following which makes it sound a little less daunting:
"Thursday night I fitted the chuffer to the Atlantic with ease, and may have discovered the ‘trick’ that Peter Rohde and Dave Mees referred to in paragraph 5 of their notes. I needed no pliers, the fit is perfect and the sound is excellent. I am running in the Atlantic on static bearings, so am able to put drag on the drivers as the engine is running and the increase in sound and note as it slows down is incredible.
I followed the Peter Rohde and David Mees instructions carefully up to paragraph 4 being sure not to undo the cap screws more than necessary which requires a 2mm allen key. It seemed obvious the tee fitting was not going to come out very easily. I removed the two red screws either side of the front buffer – they hold a retainer which keeps the chassis rails in place. With the chassis rails free it was not hard to ease them apart by hand to release the tee fitting. It is best to release the right side first as the exhaust line sits right of the live steam line. The tee fitting slips off the other side and out it comes.
The next bit requires the most amount of thought. There is a lot of bending in the Roundhouse exhaust as it has to negotiate it’s way around the live steam line and up the chimney. The only part that was straight was the top 43 mm. My original pipe measured 19mm from the top of the chimney. I cut 32.5 mm from the top of that pipe leaving only 10 mm of straight pipe to play with, trying to maintain the original curves. I then cut 13 mm off the brass tube on the bottom of the SCGP1 chuffer, cleaning up both cut ends well. It is important to note the original orientation of the tee pipe and it’s copper tube as it will only go in one way. When re-fitting, there is no side to side movement once the tee nuts are started, but there is front to back movement possible. Therefore, orient the chuffer at 90 deg. to the tee fitting with the opening (and slot) facing the front of the engine, and carefully tap it onto the copper pipe.
Since the new pipe with chuffer is fatter than the original, start it in place from the bottom and turn the engine over to ease it up the chimney with a long thin flat-head screwdriver. Once in place insert the left copper pipe into the tee fitting first, then the right, easing the chassis rails apart again. Start and loose fit the nuts on the tees, replace the two red screws either side of the front buffer, then tighten the cap screws to the cylinders, then tighten the nuts on both the tee fittings (in that order). Before the last step, I made a doughnut of pipe cleaner with a 10mm tail and slid it down the chuffer to hold it dead centre as it was tightened. Refit the buffer and remove the pipe cleaner and you are good to go. The chuffer can be tweaked into position as it is following the original curve of the pipe and the copper is fairly soft. My final position was 4mm from the top of the chimney and a little flat black paint made it blend in nicely.
Steam up and listen to the wonderful sound!”
Russell
Both Chris Haley and Iain MacLean reported back that
the Russell chimney is shorter than other Roundhouse locos and that in
order for the sounding slot to be well inside the chimney (for maximum
sound), the Chuffer needs to be mounted with the top nearly flush with
the top of the chimney. In order to achieve this, we are recommending
that the pipes are cut at 66mm rather than the 72mmfor most twin exhaust
locos.
Dave Watson was new to dismantling 16mm locos so
enlisted a more experienced enthusiast to advise and it turned out to be
quite simple. Dave's fitting notes are as follows:
"To fit the Chuffer to a Roundhouse Russell you first
need to remove the two bolts that go down vertically behind the front
buffer beam. (On mine the heads are painted black on these). This allows
you to remove the front platform/front saddle of the smoke box. Next remove the brass bolts that hold the smoke box
itself in place. There are two on each side of the loco, easily visible
below the dummy tanks. On each side the bolt nearest the front of the
loco also holds the bodywork in place. The smoke box and chimney can
now be removed and lifted off the twin exhaust pipes without any force.
Bertie
Peter Clarke discovered the need to fit Bertie's
Chuffer low due to the long chimney. He also wrote the following note on
removing Bertie's smokebox:
"Simple to remove the smokebox, just undo the bolt on
the front, slide out the running plate, slacken the boiler band that
grips the smokebox lugs, and then simply slide the smokebox off the
boiler and over the top of the exhaust pipes. " Here is a video I made
which shows the process in detail:
Darjeeling B
Dave Mees of Abbey Bach loco Works was the first to tackle fitting a Chuffer to
his Darj and using his method, owner Ralph Pitcher and I fitted a
Chuffer to his loco. I have added to Dave's notes in the light of our
experience. If in doubt please check out our Chuffer Fitter's services!
The smoke-box on the darj is in the form of a wrapper
which is clamped together underneath by two 8 BA screws and bolts. This
clamps it to the boiler and to the smoke-box front. The awkward bit is
that the dummy steam pipes straddle the real one, meaning that the
boiler must be lifted at the front to clear this.
Right then - put the loco on something soft and have something to store the bits in safely - and here goes!
1) Remove front sandbox by undoing the single screw inside.
2) Remove Saddletank by undoing the two srews holding it to the frame.
3) Undo the two 8BA clamping screws/nuts beneath smokebox and remove and store.
4) Using a pair of long nosed pliers, ease the unclamped wrapper apart and remove the smoke-box front.
5) You now need to be able to lift the front of the
boiler. Undo and remove the front brass boiler band which clamps the
boiler to a spur on the frame spacer.
6) Undo and remove the single brass screw and nut inside the front of the coal bunker.
7) Loosen but do not remove the single screw holding
the burner to the footplate - this is central under the cab in a slotted
hole.
8) Now remove smokebox /chimney assembly by springing
it apart and wriggling the dummy steam pipes past the live steam feeds
to the valve chests. Two pairs of hands are useful here!
9) Cut and fettle both exhausts as per the instructions
- approx 82mm from top of chimney. (note that this is a lower cut than
others (except Bertie) as the Darj has a longer chimney and the adapter
must be at least 4mm clear of the bottom of the chimney to allow clear
passage for the gas - check this and check again befor cutting!)
10) Fit Chuffer. We had to ease the pipes apart and tap it gently into position.
11) Reverse 1 to 8 - making sure that the boiler is
pushed firmly up against the smokebox before tightening the burner screw
under the cab. And before fitting the smoke-box front, check that the
Chuffer slot is well away from the chimney wall. If necessary, bend the
copper tube a little.
Charles Pooter
David Turner tackled the fitting of a Chuffer to his
Roundhouse Charles Pooter. This is more complex than many as this loco
is a "pot boiler" and the chimney flue extends down through the boiler.
Here are his notes:
1. Turn loco on its back. Dismount the meths burner by unscrewing a single
screw at the rear and pulling out the split pin from the middle. Note that
the 'V' mounting that held the split pin has a screw to hold it on to the
chassis. This screw will need to be removed to release the boiler band and
allow the boiler to rise.
2. Remove the body shell. This is effected by unscrewing two screws on the
front footplate and two on the rear floor of the cab. If like mine your Pooter
is radio controlled, you may find access to these screws is restricted by the
R/C receiver if it is mounted on the cab rear wall. It probably will be since
this is the obvious place for it.
3. Before lifting the body shell you need to remove the dart handles from the
smoke box door . They merely pull out. In addition, if
radio controlled, you will have to release one servo activating link
from the regulator.
4. Now the body shell may be lifted off but may still be connected by an
umbilical cord of wire between the receiver and reversing servo. This should be
long enough to stay connected and still allow good access, since whoever fitted
it in the first place would have needed a good length to enable fitting of the
R/C.
5. Turn chassis upside down and unscrew single screw to release the boiler
band. In my Pooter, the superheater pipe is long and double coiled so that it
was not necessary to disconnect any pipe work. You may find in your model that
this is less easy and therefore you may have to disconnect one junction of the
lubricator at this stage.
6.The twin exhaust pipes are combined by a single thin walled sleeve that
rises up the chimney. This is lightly crimped at the bottom but releases easily
enough with a little squeeze side to side with pliers and pulls off. I found my
pipes set at different levels but soon realised that they could be levelled
without cutting. I was able to fit the Summerlands Chuffer without a problem and
it was easy enough to replace the boiler. While the two to one adapter fitted to
the chuffer is wide, it still fits up the chimney stack leaving reasonable room
around it. Note that in the Pooter,. the chimney pipe extends right through the
smoke box so from a sound point of view it ought to work as long as the 'organ
slot' is within this. Theoretically therefore, it could be better to cut the
exhaust pipes so that the adapter was lower, causing less obstruction in the
chimney stack. (The position will not be crucial as
this is a pot boiler - probably best to aim to have the top of the
Chuffer between 5 and 10mm from the top of the chimney CB)
Carrie
Here are some brief notes to help with the fitting and some of the dismantling stages are
described in Tag Gorton's Live Steam Workshop from Atlantic Publishers.
1. First remove the two sand boxes and put somewhere safe with the two screws
2. The side tanks are each held on with a screw under
the footplate - just in front of the cylinders. When these screws are
removed, the tanks can be lifterd and unclipped from the cab. Put them
on one side.
3. Now remove the smoke-box by undoing the single
fixing screw in front. The smoke-box will then lift up and off the twin
exhausts. Again put it to one side (or degrease and spray it matt black
as Tag suggests!).
4. You will now see the boiler wrapper comes right to
the front of the smoke-box. Loosen the clamp screw at the front,
underneath and remove the blanking disc to reveal the exhausts. I found I
needed to ease the wrapper apart to free the disk - I used circlip
pliers.
5. Now place the smoke-box next to the boiler and mark the exhausts for cutting, 72mm down from the top of the chimney.
6. Cutting is a little awkward as it has to be done
inside the wrapper. Hold the pipes as firmly as you can and protect the
loco paintwork with card or cloth. Either cut with a cutting disc on a
Dremel type drill, or use a cut down, fine hacksaw blade. I found that
hinging the pipes forward and using a 3 cm cutting disc (after
protecting the boiler with a reag behind the pipes) made it a very easy
job.
7. Clean up the ends with a fine file and square them up if the disk has cut at an angle.
8. Now push the chuffer on and give a light tap to seat it.
9. Test the smoke-box in place to ensure that the slot
is clear of the chimney walls and bend the copper connecting tube if
necessary.
10. Reassemble in the reverse order.
Fowler
The first thing to be aware off is that there are now FOUR types of smokebox fitting:
1. Early type.
Here the smoke-box casting is riveted to the front
footplate and the exhausts and superheater pass through a hole in the
bottom of the casting. This means that even if you drill out the rivets
(to replace them thith screws) you cant remove the smoke-box. David
Turner's account on the Argyll page (above).
You can check if yours is this type by looking at the back of the smoke-box saddle to see if there is a gap. If you can't see then investigate with a bit of bent wire. If there is no gap - then it is the early type.
2. Mid type.
Here the difference is that the superheater and exhausts pass through an open backed slot in the base of the smoke-box casting. You can look or probe for this as above. If it is there, it means that drilling out the rivets will allow you to remove it as Chris Haley
describes in the Argyll section. Again the exhausts
are likely to be cut short. If you can't access the rivets, then proceed
as for the early type.
3. Late type
Here the slot is there as in the mid type, but the smoke-box casting is screwed on and can be removed - if you can get at the screws. If you can't access the screws, proceed as for the early type.
4. New Type
These have been produced from Autumn 2011 with the
intention of making them more "Chuffer Friendly"! The smokebox can be
removed by taking out four screws - though it does require some skill
and nerve! See the bottom of the page.....
1. Fitting Notes - Early Type
It is worth reading how David Turner dealt with his early type Argyll (see above) - but below is how I tackled the boiler-off method
In the notes provided by Roger Loxley, he said that to
get inside the smoke-box on the Fowler, you need to remove the boiler.
When I came to tackle the job – I looked for shortcuts in the way that
David and Chris had done for Argyll – but then I decided to tackle it as
Roger suggested and it was a lot easier than I expected. I have since
checked with Roger and he has confirmed that all Fowlers are built the
same way – the boiler is fitted after the smoke-box – so the principle
applies to all, though details may differ a little on later models.
Please note that this is still a quite complex task so please take
advice if you are in any doubt about your skills. Oh yes - and have
small containers handy for the parts and a safe plce to put the big
stuff.
Dismantling
1) The dummy pipework and sanding lever look very
complex, but are, in fact, very easy to remove. First remove the two
screws holding the sanding lever to the sandboxes. These were
self-tappers on mine. The sanding lever can then be removed.
2) Unscrew the large screws in the top of the
sandboxes and lift them clear, together with their dummy pipes. (note
that on later Fowlers, the tops of the sandboxes unscrew to remove). Put
them somewhere very safe!
3) You will now see that the rest of the dummy pipes
can be lifted off as a unit. Do this and put the whole lot in a safe
place. Also remove the water filler dome.
4) Now remove the cab roof by undoing the four screws
holding it to the pillars. When these screws are out, the roof will be
held in place by the gas pipe union. Carefully undo this union using the
correct sized spanner – not pliers! The roof can now be removed. Next
unbolt the cab front sheet from the side sheets and put this and the
roof somewhere safe.
5) Now, if you have a digital camera handy – take a
few photos of the plumbing in the cab – just in case. They might be
handy if the re-assembly is a couple of days later.
6) Undo the screw holding the jet into the burner and remove the jet and gas pipe.
7) Now undo the steam pipe unions at the regulator and
at the superheater pipe. Use two spanners for the latter to protect the
superheater from twisting. Remove the lubricator and pipework.
8) Next, carefully undo the two screws holding the burner into the boiler and withdraw the burner.
9) Underneath the boiler flue – you will now see one
screw holding the boiler in place. Remove this and the boiler can be
freed from the smoke-box and withdrawn backwards – lifting it up to
clear the cab back-sheet and sliding it over the superheater pipe. (Note
that on a newer Fowler, I needed to ease the bend in the end of the
superheater pipe so that it would pass down the flue. I did this very
carefully with a tight fitting spanner on the nut and then twisted the
spanner with a pair of pliers. On re-assembly, you need to be just as
careful to bend it back to meet the steam pipe union.
10) Now you can see the inside of the smoke-box. But
before you continue – replace the screw that held the boiler to secure
the cab to the frame. This will avoid damage while you are dealing with
the smoke-box.
The Chuffer
Now there are three possible scenarios when you look into the smoke-box.
You might see two 1/8” exhausts running up into the
chimney – crimped at the top and cross drilled. If this is the case you
need to measure down 72mm from the top of the chimney and, after
protecting everything with cloth or cardboard, cut them with a cutting
disc (remember the essential eye protection). The ends will need to be
cleaned up with a file and then the Chuffer pushed on.
You might see a 1/4” tube – either open or crimped at
the top – pushed over the exhausts. This needs to be removed and you
will be left with two 1/8” exhaust stubbs. Now on mine these were too
short for the Chuffer to be in the chimney. The copper tube on the
Chuffer needs to be extended to bring the top of the chuffer to 5mm
below the top of the chimney. This can be done by sleeving in a section
of 5/32” brass tubing – but it is better to contact us and we will swap
your Chuffer for a longer one.
Or you might just see the stubs as the 1/4” tube had a
habit of dropping off if the loco is inverted. If this is the case –
proceed as above.
Please note that if you look down the chimney before you start – you should be able to see which exhaust you have.
2. Fitting Notes - Mid Type (also see the Argyll notes)
Here the smoke-box is removable, but it is rivetted on
so it is necessary to drill out the two rivets holding the smoke box to
the footplate - if these are accessible (a big if!). If they are not
accessible, then see the notes for the late type or contact a Chuffer
Fitter who will sort it at reasonable cost.
First remove the sand domes and dummy pipework (see 2
above) and it then just needs a light touch with the drill (about 1/8")
and the top of the pop rivet comes off. The smoke box can then be
removed. You will then need to either tap the existing holes (after
punching out the remains of the rivet) to take bolts or drill and tap
new holes.
If you have screws hidden by the pipes, John Battersby
reports that by loosening the steam pipe unions, he managed to just get a
screw driver to them.
3. Fitting Notes - Late Type (also see the Argyll notes)
If you are lucky, the screws holding the smoke-box
casting from underneath will be accessible and easy to remove. The
smoke-box then just lifts off. If they are difficult to get at then John
Battersby reports that on his model, loosening the pipe unions gave him
access. If that fails then
Richard Bailey reports on his fitting experience below -
please note that Richiard is not recommending this method - and neither
are we! If in doubt contact a Chuffer Fitter who will sort it for you.
UPDATE - I have now fitted a late type Fowler where the
screws were inaccessible. I followed the instructions for the early
type above but then when I got to the smoke-box, the pipes were too
difficult to access. I detached the front footplate by removing the
coupling and the single screw behind. Then I waggled the whole thing to
access the two screws. With the smoke-box right off it was much easier
to cut the pipes.
Richard writes:
"I have fitted the chuffer pipe to my
Fowler!!! Quite a task. I did it on Monday Bank holiday and spent most
of the day on it. At that time I had not read your latest website
instructions so went straight in to remove the smoke box. My fowler is the very latest design (now superceded -
see below) being made only last July so the first thing (in hindsight)
is that I cannot see how to remove the two top domes and pipes as no
screws or removable caps are present on mine? (the tops of the
sand-boxes unscrew - CB)
However, I managed it by the following method.
1- Removed front buffer beam
2- Disconnected piston shaft from connecting rod and also removed screw to valve rod.
3- Removed allen screws securing cylinders to frames.
4- Removed cab roof to gain access to disconnect super heater steam pipe at connection from lubricator.
5- at this stage the cylinders and steam pipes can be
wiggled around to gain access to the screw heads thro the top of the
side frames just behind the top of the cylinders on each side. These
screws hold the top 1/4 sq frame cross member to which the plate under
the smoke box is screwed by one central screw from above and not
removeable without removing the boiler first.
6- The smoke box is now released with the bottom plate
attached and can be wiggled around and this together by wiggling the
cylinders allows the two verticall screws that secure the bottom plate
to the smoke box to be removed. These screws are obscured by the steam
pipes when everything is held down .This allows the smoke box to be
separated from the bottom plate and the smoke box pulled off the front
providing one of the dummy steam pipes that plugs into a hole in the
smoke box is sprung/Bent up? a bit.
7- The steam pipes are then exposed just as they are in Katie and can easily be cut and the chuffer fitted.
8- Put it back together!!!!
I am pleased I managed it without any damage other than a couple of dabs of black required to the slotted screw heads.
The result GREAT."
4. Fitting Notes - New Type
From the Autumn of 2011, the Fowler smokebox is secured
by four screws, two behind the smokebox screwed down into a frame
spacer and two through new tabs, folded outside te frames, just behibd
the dfront buffer beam. After removing these four screws and putting
them somewhere safe, it is also worth removing the two holding the front
buffer beam. The smokebox is now just being held in place by the dummy
pipes and the exhausts up the chimney. Now I normally recommend that the
sandbox tops are unscrewed, together with the dummy operating lever, to
allow it all to be removed, but on the one I tackled, the sandbox tops
were firmly painted on. I therefore eased the pipes away from the
smokebox and used a wooden wedge for the one that goes through a hole.
The wedge used against the boiler reduced the bending. It was then
possible to ease the smokebox forward, and by tilting it at the same
time, I could clear the exhausts.
I protected everything with cloth and used acutting
wheel on a Dremmel type drill to cut the pipes. Once the pipes were
cleaned up with a file, the chupper was pushed on and tapped home. I
then tilted it forward (this took a little effort as the exhausts were
stiff in threads) and it was then easy to get the smokebox back into
place. I just had to bend the dummy blower pipe slightly to get it to
seat back in its hole in the smokebox.
Hunslet - Linda & Blanche
Dave Herning is not the first to fit a Chuffer to one
of these fine locos but he is the first to take the time to take photos
and provide the following comprehensive notes. And if you scroll down to
below the photos, there are Keith Greenwood's notes on his fitting
experience.
First - here are Dave's notes:
1/ Remove buffer beam and vac pipe stand,only held on
by to slotted screws,nuts are behind and easy to reach,this makes it
easier to remove two screws holding smokebox on.
2/ Remove 2 8BA screws and washers holding front of smokebox and lower plate to chassis.
3/ Under chassis remove 3 8BA screws and washers
holding exhaust pipe flange to valve block assembley to allow smokebox
to lean forwards and clear sand boxes on tank front. (see top left
photo)
4/Remove smokebox and measure exhaust pipes to detrmine
length for cutting.chuffer needs to finish about 5mm from top of
chimney [I removed 60mm from top of pipes]
5/Use a small cutting disc in a Dremel type tool,clean
cut ends and open steam pipe hole of debris,trial fit chuffer to
pipes.Pipes may need slight bending to achive good position and bring
chuffer to correct height.
6/Fit chuffer to loose ends and make sure fully
seated,if in doubt mark line at bottom of chuffer mtg boss and remove to
inspect depth of engagement.
7/Refit smokebox to frt of chassis leaving exhaust
pipes loose on flange to allow them to swivel into postion,slight
lifting of tank and sand boxes will help to ease in smokebox as its
moved into place.
8/Refit 3 8BA screws and washers to exhaust pipe flange
under loco chassis,carefully bending exhaust pipes to help in ftg to
valve block,keeping flange square to block and tighten.
9/Refit buffer beam and vac pipe stand,you may need a
pair of neadle nose pliers to hold the 2 .brass nuts whilst you tighten
the screws
And now here are Keith Greenwood's fitting notes:
Before I fitted the chuffer I painted the top and about
3mm down the top sides with black paint. My "Linda" is from a 2008
batch.
1. Remove buffer beam - two screws, one either side of
centre buffer. They have nuts on the back that you can hold onto while
undoing the screws.
2. Remove black L plate behind which has the vacuum
pipe assembly hooked into the front left. These are just screws, no
nuts on reverse.
3. Gently pull the smokebox forward and up, there is a
little resistance from the exhaust pipes but only whilst the smokebox
is coming forwards, be careful not to scratch the sandboxes.
4. Measure and cut exhaust pipes making sure to put
some card etc. in front of the sandboxes to protect them - I used a
small hacksaw and cleaned up the ends with a file. I also used to nail
in the end of the pipes to make sure it was cylindrical and free of any
metal filings.
5. Fit the "Chuffer". I had to bend my exhaust pipes a little as they were not similar in shape going up to the chimney.
6. Place the smokebox on top of the left sandbox and
look from the right hand side of the loco, you will be able to work out
where the chuffer needs to be bent to to go up the centre of the
chimney.
7. Slide the smokebox down and back into place.
8. Check the position of the chuffer, alter if
necessary, i managed to get it central by using the end of very small
flat ended screwdriver down into the chimney to ease it into the centre.
9. Replace black L plate with the two screws.
10. Replace buffer beam, you may need some pliers etc to grip the nuts from behind as there is limited space for fingers.
I managed to get the red painted bufferbeam screws back
on without paint damage, it may be necessary to dab a bit of paint on
these if the paint comes away on your model.
Jack (Special Edition)
Fitting a Chuffer to the new Roundhouse Jack Special
Edition is very straightforward - but is slightly more complex than for
Katie, Billy or Lady Anne. I have fitted one to Mike Jackson's smart new
loco and here are a few notes:
1. The sandboxes on the front of the tank make it very
difficult to access the two screws behind the smoke-box - so it is best
to remove the bodywork.
2. The bodywork is held on with two screws - one in the
dome and one in the centre of the rear buffer beam. Remove these
carefully and put them in a safe place.
3. Place a rag under the lubricator outlet and remove
the drain screw. Now you will be able to lift the bodywork up and ease
it past the lubricator outlet. Put it to one side in a safe place.
4. Remove the three screws from the smoke-box and note
which one came from the front hole so it can be replaced. (They all look
the same, but the front screw wouldn't go into a side hole on Mike's
loco ......).
5. Now follow the instructions and fit the Chuffer. We
needed to bend the exhausts a little to allow them to clear the steam
pipe. The Chuffer slot faced backwards.
6. Replace the smoke-box, using the three screws and
then replace the bodywork. The tab at the rear of the cab fits behind
the buffer beam overlay and the cab needs to be pressed down to locate
the screw. Finally replace the lubricator drain screw.
Katie
Here is a little video which shows the process detailed in the SCRH1 Instructions
Karen
Rob, the Roundhouse designer has gave me instructions for removing the smokebox from Karen. When Tag Gorton, editor of Garden Rail magazine tried to follow them, he foud it more difficult than it appears from my notes. Indeed he though that extra screw needed to come out and so phoned Roundhouse. It turns out that it needs a firm hand and confidence, but the instructions are correct. I have amended the notes, to reflect Tag's experience, and if you wish to ask him, then he is happy for you to email him on tag@atlanticpublishers.com
1. Remove the two screws holding the front buffer beam and remove it.
2. You will now see two cheesehead screws holding the smokebox to the chassis crossmember. Remove these and put them somewhere safe.
3. Now ease the smokebox and the complete front footplate forward until it stops. Then it needs a firm pull to release it and lift it up to clear the boiler and exhaust.
4. The Karen is fitted with a simple chuff pipe "enhancer". This needs to be removed to fit the Summerlands Chuffer as follows.
5. Place the smokebox on the footplate next to the exhaust and measure down 50mm down from the top of the chimney. Mark the exhaust pipe at that point. Protect the boiler and cut the exhaust with a Dremel or junior hacksaw, then clean up the end of the pipe with a fine file.
6. Push the SCGP1 Chuffer on to the exhaust - if at all loose, the slightest bend in the copper pipe will make it grip.
7. Now replace the smokebox/footplate and check that the chuffer is about 5mm down from the top of the chimney. Check also that the sound slot is away from the chimney wall (it is marked with a scratch on the top).
8. Replace the screws and buffer beam and you are ready to steam up and enjoy the sound!
Leek & Manifold
Here are fitting notes for the Roundhouse Leek & Manifold loco which have been compiled with the help of the Roundhouse designer, Rob, and Simon Whenmouth of Anything Narrow Gauge.
1. Undo the two screws on the front buffer beam - which is part of the front footplate.
2. There are two screws under the valance behind the cylinders - one either side and difficult to see. Loosen these but do not remove.
3. The front footplate is a tight fit and must be withdrawn forwards, easing it up and over the cylinders. It slots into the rear footplate and can take some effort to break the paint seal. Use fingers behind the buffer beam and thumbs pressing against something that doesn't move.This is a bit of a fiddle, but slow and careful and beware of sharp bits is the advice!
4. You will now see two countersunk screws either side of the smokebox. These hold the wrapper in place. Remove these and the smokebox wrapper will spring out slightly.
5. The smokebox is now removed forwards from between the tanks. Carefully release the blower pipe from the front of the cab and be careful not to scratch the boiler. it might be worth protecting it with masking tape. Again care is needed and as it comes forward, it must be lifted to clear the exhaust.
6. You will see a single 1/8" exhaust. This needs to be supported and cut so that when pushed fully into the chuffer, the chuffer body is inside the chimney. Aim to have the top about 5mm down.
7. Fit the chuffer so it is a firm fit, putting a slight bend in the copper if necessary.
8. Re-assemble in reverse order.
Lilla
Mountaineer and Alco
Thanks to the kind assistance of Rob, the designer of
this Roundhouse loco and John Hancox who acted as "guinea pig", I have
the following fitting notes for fitting the SCRH6 Chuffer. Please note
that it is necessary to remove the tanks and smokebox and to cut the
exhaust to fit the chuffer. If in doubt, please seek help.
1.Undo the two retaining screws on the front buffer
beam and remove the beam. As with all the parts removed, put them safely
in a container.
2.You will now see that the front footplate is held in
place by a lug on either side of the frame. Loosening the screws on the
frame spacer will allow the front footplate to be slid forward and
removed.
3.This reveals a screw under the smokebox wrapper which
secures the smokebox front in position. Unscrew this screw and you will
be able to slide the smokebox front out to reveal the single exhaust
which is curved to one side before entering the chimney.
4.Next remove the tanks (which is easier than it
looks). First unscrew the chequerplate ‘bridge’ between the tanks by
removing the M2 screw. Next locate the two fixing screws, one either
side at the rear of the tanks. Remove these and the tanks can be slid
backwards towards the cab and lifted clear.
5.Before moving on, look carefully at the exhaust. We
need it it be straight and vertical where it enters the chimney as it
has to be cut and the 8mm deep fitting on the Chuffer has to be fully
pushed on so that the bottom of the chuffer is about level with the
bottom of the chimney in the smokebox.
6.It may be necessary to bend the exhaust to achieve
this, either by gently increasing the angle of main curve so that it
lowers the top of the exhaust, or by simply straightening the pipe,
where it is inside the chimney (when the smokebox has been removed).
(See * note below)
7.Next you will need to remove the smokebox. First
remove the two M2 screws (one either side). Then remove the nut holding
the dummy blower tube onto the smokebox and remove this by sliding it
out from the front of the cab.
8.Now raise the running plate slightly so that you can
unclip the right hand cylinder cover to give access to the clamp screw
and nut at the rear of the smokebox (underneath). Remove the screw and
nut completely. You can now ease the smokebox forward and slide the rear
clamp tags past the superheater pipe. The smokebox can then be moved up
around the exhaust tube and lifted clear. If necessary, you can remove
the screw holding the front pony truck to make this easier.
9.Now decide what bending will be necessary to give
about 8mm of straight vertical exhaust inside the chimney. When pushed
on to this, the Chuffer will be level with the bottom. If necessary hold
the smokebox in position and double check before marking the pipe,
protecting the boiler with some card or wood and cutting the exhaust
with with a junior hacksaw.
10.Clean up the end of the pipe with a fine file and push the chuffer firmly on.
11.Replace the smokebox, but before going any further,
look down the chimney to see that the slot, indicated by the scratch on
the top, is clear of the chimney wall. Either turn the chuffer or bend
the exhaust if necessary.
12.Now reassemble in reverse order. The rear clamp
screw is awkward to replace so it may need some ingenuity*! When all is
back together, steam up and enjoy the sound.
*Mike Maguire has sent the following note on this:
I've just fitted a Chuffer to my Mountaineer. With the
help of your fitting notes, it all went pretty well. I found it easier
to straighten the exhaust pipe than bend it even further.
In para.12 (last) it’s noted that re-fitting the rear
(boiler-end) wrapper nut-and-bolt presents a tricky access problem. I
thought you might be interested to know how I solved it.
I cleaned and tinned the outside face of the nut-side
lug and soldered an 8BA brass nut to it, using an 8BA steel bolt through
both lugs to hold it in place during soldering.
I then removed the last 2mm or so of thread from a 1/2 inch steel 8BA bolt to create a guide pin.
Using a dab of blu-tack and a long screwdriver, this
bolt can be easily inserted (chassis lying on its side) – the guide pin
ensures proper alignment and freedom from cross-threading.
Sandy River No. 24
There are a number of different ways of fitting a
Chuffer to this fine loco. Below are four different approaches - though
there may be more!
Ken Wright was the first to tackle the fitting:
"The main problem
with the Sandy River is that the smokebox is secured by several screws,
but these are a bit tucked away and are obscured by the high running
boards. These could be removed, but RH has generously coated them with
paint. There are also two smokebox stays which disappear into the front
pilot beam, and suffer from the same coating of paint. I was really
afraid of damaging the paintwork, especially the running boards, so I
was trying to think on another approach. The smokebox door plugs in, so I
wondered if I could cut the pipes from the front with the smokebox "in
situ".
I even bought a cheese cutter type wire saw that I
thought I could pass behind the pipes and cut them that way. In fact,
the wire saw was too stiff to attempt this, and so I was back to square
one. After practicing on a piece of spare pipe, I decided to use a fine
hacksaw blade - minus the handle! With padding for surrounding areas,
and my long-suffering wife holding the pipe steady with a pair of
pliers, I attacked it. After a few minutes the pipe was cut, and after a
clean up with a fine file and finishing paper the job was done. I
attached the chuffer by pushing it down the chimney and after a few
attempts managed to snugly push it onto the exhaust pipes. Success!
I took it straight out to try on my rolling road. I was absolutely delighted with the end result - it sounds fantastic
Terry Keep has also fitted the Chuffer to his Sandy River No.24 and adds the following:
"I followed Ken Wright’s method on the Fitting Notes page of the website, but working single-handed found the following helpful:
I made a fitting gauge out of a piece of plastic tubing
and a clamp. I pushed the tube down the chimney (sorry – stack) so that
it enclosed the exhaust pipes and the bottom end gave a cutting guide. A
simple clamp on the tube rested on the top of the chimney to hold it in
position - it did squeeze the tube a bit - but it works!
Holding the top end of the tube enabled me to steady
the exhaust pipes while cutting with a fine junior hacksaw blade. A
metal pipe might be better and I did need a bit of help with a pair of
snipe-nosed pliers towards th
The cutting height worked out at 71mm, (not 72 as in
the Lady Anne instructions – maybe I measured it wrong). The clamp
squeezed the pipe a little but the arrangement worked:
The pipes were cleaned up by inserting a flat swiss file down the stack, and then through the smokebox door hole.
While cleaning up the pipes I found it useful to try
each pipe in turn in the holes in the chuffer fitting, by rotating the
chuffer through 180 degrees:
Terry has now added the following note:
A better method than using a clamp would be to drill
through the tube and insert a piece of rod (or the drill that you used)
to form a cross-piece that would sit on top of the stack.(Make sure that
the 71mm dimension is correct)
You can see Terry's loco in action here at the bottom of Video Page 6
Lindsay Newton followed the notes on this page - and
here are his own notes and photos - in his own special Pine Tree
Junction style!
"I followed Ken's and Terry's instructions from the
Summerland Chuffer website and found it much easier than I expected. I
had successfully fitted a Summerlands Chuffer to our Roundhouse Jack
Special Edition and our Silver Lady, but was full of fear and
trepidation at tackling our magnificent Sandy River. I don’t mind taking
a hacksaw to most things, but our Sandy River is something very
special. After the dramatic transformation that a chuffer made to Jack
and Silver Lady, Sandy River was sounding very deficient in the sound
department so the deed had to be done! With my printed page beside me,
and some email encouragement from Chris Bird, I assembled the tools and
in true Pine Tree Junction style, brought the camera along as well. If I
was going to mess this up, I would need photographic evidence! Anyway,
all went well and I successfully fitted the Summerlands Chuffer to
Sandy River without any problem at all. What a fantastic sound she now
makes. You can check this out for yourself by clicking the video below.
Many thanks Chris and Nigel for inventing a great little addition to our
superb Roundhouse locomotives!
Here are my step by step instructions.
1. Unscrew the small nut and bolt under the smoke box.
2. Gently pull out the smoke box door to reveal the two cooper steam pipes.
3. Drill a small hole in a scrap piece of copper pipe, 71mm from the bottom
4. Slip a small piece of wire into the hole to rest on the top of the chimney/smokestack
5. Lower the cooper pipe into the smoke stack so the piece of wire rests across the top
6. Mark the two steam pipes with a file across the bottom of the copper pipe.
7. Place a piece of thin wood behind the pipes against the boiler to act as a guard.
8. Hold the two steam pipes with a pair of pliers or a small clamp.
9. Using a small hacksaw blade, slowly begin to cut the pipes. Take your time - slowly does it!
10. Remove the off cuts from the two steam pipes.
11. File the top and inside of the remaining steam pipes.
12. Slip the chuffer down the smoke stack.
13. Gently fit the chuffer onto the first steam pipe.
14. Pull it off and try the chuffer on the second steam pipe.
15. When both fit, gently tap the chuffer onto both steam pipes.
16. Replace the smoke box door.
17. Job done!
John Blakeley in Australia has found a different method. He writes:
I have a high frequency multi-function tool ( there are
several brands) & it has a small 10mm blade that I have used to cut
the exhaust pipes in another loco. Its reach is only 37mm approx. &
access on the SRRL loco is blocked by the protruding head light. With
the smoke box cover removed one can see 2 nuts (just visible in the left hand photo above)
which allow removal of the head light & stack assembly . This
allows the tool to reach the 2 pipes & also facilitates the bracing /
holding of the pipes during cuttin
Note - if using this method, make sure that you protect the front of the boiler before cutting and that you have a steady hand!